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Keratin hair straightening products are a classic that has been used for many years by women who want their strands to be as smooth as possible. However, there is also an alternative to these products on the market: acid-based formulations. They are quite often classified as a separate group of hair straightening products — nanoplasty products. They work according to a different chemical principle and provide long-lasting, stable results. But how do acid-based hair straightening formulations work? How do they differ from classic keratin treatments? Let us try to answer these questions in more detail.
What Are Acid-Based Hair Straightening Formulations?
Acid-based hair straightening formulations contain active ingredients that help change the shape of the hair during treatment, particularly when high temperatures are involved. As a result, curls become less pronounced, the hair looks smoother, and styling becomes easier.
One of the ingredients used in smoothing products is glyoxylic acid. It may help change the shape of the hair during heat treatment (using a hair straightener). At the same time, the mechanism of action of acid-based formulations differs from that of classic alkaline chemical straightening, which alters the disulfide bonds in the hair. To understand how these products work, it is worth recalling the structure of the hair shaft. Its outer layer — the cuticle — consists of overlapping scales that protect the inner structures. Beneath the cuticle lies the cortex, which largely determines the mechanical properties and shape of the hair.
During acid-based straightening, changes occur not only on the surface. Products of this type may affect the cuticle, the internal structure, and the mechanical properties of the hair. When heated, the active ingredients interact with the hair fibre, while heat treatment helps create a smoother appearance. After the procedure, the hair may become less frizzy, reflect light more effectively, and require less time to style. The degree of straightening depends on the hair's natural structure, its condition, the characteristics of the product, and compliance with the treatment technique.
It is important to bear in mind that acid-based nanoplasty formulations do not have one universal recipe. Depending on the product, the ingredients may include various active substances, amino acids, hydrolysed proteins, oils, and conditioning agents. Therefore, when choosing a product, it is necessary to consider its full ingredient list, intended use, and the manufacturer's instructions.
How Does Nanoplasty Differ from Keratin Hair Straightening?
Nanoplasty and keratin hair straightening can provide similar visual results: smooth, shiny hair with less pronounced curls. However, they are not identical procedures.
Classic keratin hair straightening is a separate category of professional systems in which the smoothing effect is usually associated with the action of formaldehyde or substances capable of releasing it when heated. Keratin hair straightening products usually form a polymer coating (film) on the hair surface, which helps smooth the cuticle and maintain the cosmetic effect. A similar mechanism has also been described for some acid-based formulations containing glyoxylic acid and its derivatives: a film associated with hair smoothing may form during high-temperature treatment. At the same time, acid-based products can also affect the internal structure of the hair fibre.
Acid-based hair straightening systems may provide a greater straightening effect. They also do not contain formaldehyde; however, certain ingredients in their composition can still evaporate into the surrounding environment when a hair straightener is used. Therefore, the stylist must ensure both adequate room ventilation and protection for the respiratory tract and eyes (a mask and goggles).
You can learn more about the specific features of each procedure in our article Keratin, Botox, or Nanoplasty: What to Choose in 2026.
Does Nanoplasty Restore Hair?
After nanoplasty, hair often becomes softer, smoother, and shinier. It tangles less, is easier to comb, and has a more uniform surface. This effect is associated both with hair smoothing and with the action of conditioning ingredients that reduce friction between individual strands.
However, a cosmetic improvement in appearance does not mean that the damaged structure has been fully restored. After bleaching, colouring, mechanical friction, or excessive heat exposure, hair may lose strength and elasticity. Conditioning ingredients help improve its surface properties, but they do not restore all the characteristics of undamaged hair to a damaged strand.
Particular care must be taken when assessing the condition of bleached, fine, and brittle hair. If it has already lost strength, additional heat treatment may increase the damage, even if the hair looks smooth immediately after the procedure.
Therefore, before performing nanoplasty, the stylist must assess the hair's porosity, elasticity, density, and the condition of the ends, as well as take into account its colouring history and previous treatments. In some cases, achieving the maximum possible straightening effect is not the best solution.
How to Choose a Nanoplasty or Keratin Treatment Formula?
The result of the procedure depends on how correctly the product is selected for a specific hair type. A formula intended for naturally coarse curls may not be suitable for bleached lengths, which require a more careful approach. Several characteristics must be taken into account before choosing a professional product.
- Hair curl type. Coarse, thick, and very curly hair may require formulas with a pronounced smoothing effect.
- Hair condition. High porosity, brittleness, and loss of elasticity may limit the possibility of performing the procedure.
- History of chemical treatments. Previous bleaching, colouring, and other methods of hair modification must be taken into account.
- Full product composition. It is important to check not only for the presence of keratin, amino acids, or oils, but also for the active ingredients responsible for smoothing.
- Manufacturer's instructions. The flat iron temperature, processing time, and other parameters must comply with the requirements for the specific product.
This approach helps assess the product's compatibility with the hair and reduce the risk of unwanted consequences. You should not independently change the temperature or duration of the procedure to achieve stronger straightening.
Some good options for straightening curls include:
- Beneliss Nanoplastia — nanoplasty for hair. The product is intended for straightening coarse, porous, and very curly hair. Its composition includes hydrolysed keratin and silk, which help improve the feel of the hair and maintain its smoothness. Argan oil helps soften the hair, while propolis extract complements the care.
- VOGUE Orghanlux — nanoplasty for hair. This professional product is intended to smooth wavy and curly hair, reduce frizz, and add shine. It does not contain formaldehyde or its derivatives. The product is primarily suitable for natural, undamaged hair and is not recommended for bleached or severely damaged lengths. The duration of the cosmetic effect depends on the hair's initial condition and subsequent care.
- Beneliss MAX POWER — keratin for hair. The product is intended to provide pronounced smoothing for coarse, thick, and very curly hair. Its composition contains macadamia oil, which helps soften the hair and improve its feel. Conditioning ingredients help reduce the feeling of dryness and add shine. After the procedure, the hair may become more manageable and easier to style. Before use, check the composition and the product's compatibility with previous chemical treatments.
- Honma Tokyo (WENNOZ) Coffee Premium — keratin for hair. This professional system contains keratin amino acids, glycolic coffee extract, wheat protein, and other conditioning ingredients. The product is designed to smooth the hair, reduce porosity, and improve its appearance. Conditioning ingredients help maintain softness and shine, while the duration of the effect depends on the hair type and care routine. This keratin treatment can be used to straighten different hair types; it works gently yet effectively.
Hair Care After Nanoplasty
After nanoplasty, it is important to maintain the hair in good condition to reduce brittleness and preserve smoothness. Subsequent care must be selected according to the manufacturer's recommendations and the hair's needs. To maintain the results, it is worth following several rules.
- Use a suitable shampoo. A sulphate-free product may be appropriate — it is as gentle as possible, and the treatment effect may last longer when it is used. However, for an oily scalp, it is better to choose products with stronger cleansing properties.
- Do not forget about conditioner. It helps reduce friction between strands, makes combing easier, and maintains smoothness.
- Add hair masks when needed. Products containing conditioning ingredients, oils, and hydrolysed proteins may be beneficial for dry and porous hair.
- Limit excessive heat exposure. Even after straightening, hair remains sensitive to high temperatures. When using a flat iron or hair dryer, do not forget to use heat protection.
- Comb your hair gently. Start at the ends and gradually work your way up the lengths without creating excessive tension.
Properly selected care helps maintain the cosmetic effect and reduces the risk of additional damage. If the hair becomes brittle or excessively dry after the procedure, do not rush into another straightening treatment.
Benefits of Choosing Professional Hair Cosmetics at KeratinPro
The KeratinPro online store offers a range of hair straightening products, as well as professional cosmetics for hair botox treatments and hair care. You can also choose shampoos, conditioners, masks, and other products for regular care after salon treatments. The store's advantages include:
- A range of products for different needs. You can choose cosmetics for professional treatments and subsequent care.
- Products for hairstylists. The catalogue features products and accessories for working with hair.
- The option to select a complete care routine. Professional treatment formulas can be complemented with products for cleansing, conditioning, and caring for the lengths.
- Online ordering. The website makes it easy to browse the range, product characteristics, and delivery terms.
With us, you can build an excellent range of products for professional hair modification or choose the perfect home care routine that will suit your curls.
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